Back to basics

Over to the summer that should be every bit clean, green and easy. The Khadi Way, as presented by label 11.11, introduced three symbols to certify the origins of the fibers, the processes and the people. While at it, red colour comes from rubia, yellow from harda, pink from sappan wood. From among The First Cut Designers, the label The Meraki Project by designer Sonali Pamnani, used Ikat in a way, though not aggressively western, still modern. It doesn’t get more relaxed or luxurious than the summer as painted by Eka, the handcrafted label for women. Picture soft hand-woven fabrics, midi dresses, long- loose jackets in pastel hues and gingham checks.

Manpriya Singh

Traditional textiles are not a new rhetoric in fashion circles; eco-textiles, however, are. Creative minds coming together with a green approach to fashion rather than using it as a crutch, makes for a sunny story. The recently concluded Amazon India Fashion Week Spring Summer- 2016 flung open natural fabrics, easy silhouettes and fuss-free fashion.

Bordering on brocade

picture: formal dresses

Starting with the grand finale that had the likes of Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna, Namrata Joshipura, Ashish N Soni, Rajesh Pratap Singh, Abhishek Gupta, Gauri and Nainika, Alpana and Neeraj, Abraham and Thakore, Anupamaa Dayal, Malini Ramani, ATSU, Arjun Saluja,

Manish Arora, JJ Vallaya, Sabyasachi and Tarun Tahiliani, come together to give brocade its moment of glory.

It was interesting to see the Benarasi weave placed outside the usual and used in jackets, skirts, culottes, as cutwork, in an off-shoulder gown, apart from in all its bridal wear glory.

Denim under spotlight

As for the denims, they have been bleached, washed, even appliquéd; but most importantly given variable treatments rather than the royal ignore. Showing up in prominently in collections by Ashish N Soni as double-breasted jacket, hot pants and bandhgala.

While Ika by Rgaini Ahuja comprised soft treated denims used in oversized lounge wear. Sometimes with florals appliquéd on it, other times plain practical as jackets and loose pants.

Moving on, designer Anupama Dayal brought out all the hues of rainbow in flowy silhouettes and so did the label Virtues by designer Viral, Ashish and Vikrant. Play suits, shift dresses, sarees with geometrical prints summed up designer Debarun’s vision of the upcoming spring.

White—the wayto go

If anything could be in, without ever being out, this is it. White is happening and how. While shades of beige, creams and pastel nudes has been the colour palette of many a designers, white seems to be set for a comeback in its original uncorrupted avatar, showing up in collections by designer Nikhita Tandon, Shweta Kapur and Samant Chouhan and Rabani and Rakha. Nikhita kept her white, pristine and silhouettes, edgy in a range of evening wear comprising structured dresses and gowns. Designer Malini Ramani mixed her whites with a lot of shimmer and kept it formal rather than relaxed with gowns and jumpsuits. While coral, though still present, seems to have significantly given way in favour of mustard and dusty yellow. The colour palette comprised soft browns, lime greens, apart from vivid hues of indigo.

read more: bridesmaid gowns